By Lisa Sinnott, BA(Hons), PgDip Clinical Animal Behaviour
Many of us heard about the new addition to Number 10 Downing Street. No, not Sir Keir Starmer and his family – there is a new furry family member, a Siberian kitten, Jojo. Larry has seen five prime ministers in his home in Downing Street, but a kitten is something new for him … with Larry the cat being 17 years old, this will be quite the adjustment, so here are some considerations if you have welcomed a new cat home already.
Ensuring cats have enough resources is essential, as competition for these can create stress and tension, leading to conflict – cats may fight or urinate outside the litter tray. Key resources for cats include:
• Litter boxes (without a lid or if you can’t be without a lid a see-through lid so they can see the other coming)
• Food and water bowls
• Scratching posts (corrugated cardboard is always popular and can save sofas!)
• Beds and resting spots (in a variety of places – high up and down low such as under the bed or in an opened wardrobe)
• A cardboard box can help reduce stress
Their own space
When introducing a new cat, it's important to set up a dedicated space where they can feel safe and have access to all their resources. New resources that don’t smell of your existing cat are important as it can prevent some cats from settling in. Baby gates (without gaps) can initially be very helpful so the cats don’t have access to each other. Play time opportunities are important to avoid frustration.
Scent swapping
If possible, before introducing cats, it's helpful to engage in scent swapping. This reduces the likelihood of them being overwhelmed by each other's presence when they meet for the first time.
Place a blanket from the new cat's environment in your home so your existing cat can become familiar with the scent (before the new cat has come home). Similarly, leave a blanket with your cat's scent at the breeder's or rescue centre for the new cat to investigate. If your cat is hissing at it, this can be a red flag and may be a consideration that your cat will not be suited to having a new cat at home.
The next step after your cat has acclimatised to their new space is to start the scent swapping again. This time have a small cloth that the other has slept on and swap them over (they are still not seeing each other at this point). Place it on a resting spot you know your cat goes to and hopefully they will rest on it and exchange scents. If not, stroking the cats with a cotton glove to help exchange scents can help; then leave the glove in their separate areas. If a cat is hissing at the smell, you need to take things a lot more slowly.
Each other’s areas
Again, the cats have not met each other yet, but we want to allow them to investigate the other’s areas (individually not in the same room together). We don’t want this to occur too soon though – it is important that the new cat has settled.
Visual access of each other via baby gates
Drape a blanket over one side of the gate, so the other cat can hide if they wish to.
The next step is for them to have supervised physical access to each other so you can check for body language (cat play signs are lower down). How slow to go will be dependent on your cat’s temperament, but remember you can’t undo things – slow is the way to go!
What to avoid
• Don’t force the cats into the same room and close the door. Have high places available for them to go (such as cat trees or sturdy bookshelves that are attached to the wall).
• Don’t put them in the same cat carrier.
• Don’t let them fight it out in the hope they’ll eventually get along (it’s not about dominance).
Food and water
Once everything is well and both cats have settled, continue to feed cats at a distance from one another to avoid any feelings of threat, as cats are solitary hunters by nature. They prefer eating alone, unlike humans who go out to restaurants and have dinner parties! I don’t recommend feeding your cats their dinner each side of the baby gate (meal times are solitary).
Additionally, keep water bowls separate from food to prevent the water from absorbing food odours, which may discourage cats from drinking. Since cats often don’t drink enough, it's crucial to encourage hydration in any way possible (tuna juice in spring water with their water can help increase water intake).
Signs that cats are getting on well (this can take lots of time – if it ever happens)
• Allogrooming – taking it in turns to groom each other
• Rubbing alongside each other
• Sleeping next to each other with contact/resting alongside each other
Signs that there is tension between cats
• Biting, scratching or swatting (sometimes bunny kicking and wrestling can occur in play but look for claws out)
• Chasing (without play)
• Blocking access to food and water
• Blocking the litter tray
Cat play – what’s okay?
Kittens can be bundles of energy and there’s no doubt that many older cats still like to play, but they are likely to have very different play styles and energy. What we want to avoid at all costs is a baby beating up ‘granddad’ style of play where your older cat is showing signs that they don’t want to play (these could be overt – hissing, growling, pawing – or more subtle – just not engaging – and wanting to rest instead. Your kitten may stay inside if they have not been fully vaccinated; therefore they will have a lot of pent-up energy to expend (puzzle feeders and play can be great for this).
Here is some guidance on what’s okay in cat play…
Red flags (things to worry about)
• Are they sprinting or bundling each other?
• Are their claws out?
• Hissing can be a sign of unhappiness
• Is one cat choosing to move away?
Green flags (good signs)
• Are they taking it in turns to play?
• Are head and ears turning away?
• Are eyes soft?
• Is body position loose and relaxed?
• Are they springy in terms of body language?
• Is one giving chase when another moves away?
Your kitten checklist
Here are some things to consider in regards to your kitten and a checklist.
Safety
• Block off any areas that a kitten can fall from such as gaps between stair panels and open windows – kittens can be very inquisitive and climb curtains. You can purchase window attachments that mean you can let air in, but your cat can’t get out.
• Make sure you avoid blind cords as a cat could get caught in them.
• Make sure kitchen gaps are closed – some cats can hide behind the washing machine or dishwasher.
• Just like you have with your cat, keep lilies away and invest in some beautiful fake ones as they can be toxic.
• Equally remember to let everyone know to keep anti-freeze away as many cats like the taste and it can kill.
• When to let them outside, if that is something you’re planning on.
Neutering
Cats who are sterilised are less likely to transmit diseases from mating or fighting. When neutered, a cat roams less and therefore is less likely to be in a road traffic accident.
Neutered, free-roaming female cats actually show reduced aggression compared with intact cats (Finkler and Terkel, 2010).
From a health perspective, neutering before six months can provide a 91% reduction in developing a mammary carcinoma (Overly et al, 2005).
Prepubescent neutering (from four months old – as this is an age a cat can get pregnant) can avoid cats having unwanted litters – rescue centres are full of kittens and cats needing new homes. Stavisky (2014) in information by Welsh et al (2014) explains that even related cats can mate with each other and this can result in pregnancy, so it is something to be aware of if you have two kittens who are brother and sister.
Habituation and socialisation
We want kittens to maintain a weariness of traffic sounds, so I do not recommend playing these to them. Cats Protection has a great sound resource that you can play to help prepare them for sounds they will hear.
When getting a kitten used to handling – gentle handling of their paws and pairing with a treat and brushing is important. Carrier training can help make trips for annual vaccinations easier. There are a host of worming and flea products on the market, but some can vary in efficacy – Credilo is a tiny tablet which many cats will eat very easily.
Lisa Sinnott, BA(Hons), PgDip Clinical Animal Behaviour, is a cat and dog behaviourist and founder of St Claws Academy and St Paws Training Academy. She has a postgraduate diploma in clinical animal behaviour from the University of Edinburgh Royal (Dick) School of Vet Studies. You can find out more about cats over on her blog on her website http://www.stclawsacademy.co.uk/ or her podcast The Contented Catcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/lisa-sinnott2
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